Here are some of the parts you will need for this job. 1 is an AK retainer plate; it holds in your trigger pins. The cross-conn guide shows you how to use your old trigger spring for a retainer, but these plates ship with most Tapco G2 trigger groups, and work much better. No reason not to have one, plus, it means you don’t have to modify the rear stock to fit in the receiver. 2 is the G2 trigger, disconnector and hammer. It’s very smooth, although were I not trying for a bit of a bargain conversion here, I would have gone with the Red Star adjustable. It still beats the stock trigger by a mile. 3 is the front hand guard retainer; these are originally installed before the gas block and FSB are pressed on. They need to be customized for do-it-yourselfers; more on that later. 4 is a Tapco pistol grip and nut, 5 is a new gas tube (I needed it to install the upper hand guard retainer; the Saiga gas tube is incompatible), and 6 are bags of nylon receiver plugs to fill in the leftover holes.

This is the stock I used; ugly, beat up and ugly. I think it was probably nice when Harry cut it ten years ago. I refinished the hell out of it, you’ll see how far I took it later. I wanted something unique, and I think I got just that.

This is a good time to talk about 922r. For anyone unfamiliar, to use a pistol grip or hi capacity magazine, your rifle has to have less than 10 foreign parts, making it an American made rifle. Long story short, the Saigas have 14 parts total, so you need to replace 5 (or 4 and add a muzzle device). For my rifle, the butt stock (and grip), hand guards, hammer, trigger and disconnector made up my five parts. Some people add a muzzle device and replace the gas piston so they can buy cheap foreign stocks. They are like $50-$75 cheaper than their American counterparts. You can also use an American made magazine for a US part if you wish, or even just an American made follower.

Work begins. I sanded my stock by hand, starting with medium grit to get down past any obvious dings, and to let it soak in more stain (at first). Later, during the five day staining process, I continued to sand it with finer and finer grit to get a smooth finish.

Staining it. I used “ebony” stain, the darkest one available. I wanted a hybrid between “evil black rifle” and classic wood styling. Apply, sit three minutes, wipe, and re-apply until it stops taking stain. Let it dry, sand, repeat. This goes on and on until you are satisfied. Do NOT let stain dry on without wiping it; you’ll get shiny ugly lumps and drips. While it dried, I began my conversion.

This was my set up. Now would be a good time to list the tools I used.

-Hand drill, 1/8th and ¼ inch bits. Three of each bit.

-Flat and triangular files.

-Vice grips, pliers, c-clamps.

-Dremel tool, with plenty of cutting wheels and bullet point files.

-Hammer, center punch, punches of various sizes.

-Flathead screwdrivers

-Tap wrench with 6-32 tap, 7/64th drill bit, and 6-32 machine screws and nuts.

-Krylon BBQ paint (more on this later), CLP, 3 in 1 oil.

Things I wish I had:

-A BENCH VISE. The next one of these I do, I’m buying a goddamned bench vise. You can do it without one - I did – but it would make things a whole lot easier. I should probably buy a bench as well.

-A drill press or mini-mill.

Anyway, to start, strip your rifle and remove the gas tube and stocks. If you cannot do this simple step, forget about your conversion for now, but feel free to enjoy my guide. Also remove the safety lever by turning it past “safe” to a 90 degree angle with the receiver. It’s keyholed, and will slide out the side.

We start by removing the old fire control group.

The pins holding in your trigger and hammer have little caps you need to drill off. Use the ¼ inch bit, and don’t drill into the receiver. This is the simplest part of the whole conversion; you get used to bending, shaping, pounding, marring, disfiguring and generally fucking up metal pretty fast working on an AK. This isn’t a 10/20 put together with screws and springs, this is SOVIET ENGINEERING. Force was liberally applied in it’s making, and will be liberally applied throughout the conversion. Get used to it.

When you are through the caps of the pins, tap them out. My tap was in the other room, and I used the one found in my cleaning kit. They require almost no force, you could probably push them out if the caps are all the way off.

At this point, the old trigger spring will work its way out. It goes in the junk bin, unless you want to make in into a retainer- which you can’t do unless you put posts back where your old trigger and hammer pins were. Just buy a retainer plate.

Here are the pins from the other side. Pull them out, and the old FCG falls right out.

Great success. Here’s the empty receiver. In the picture, 1 is the set of new trigger and hammer pins, 2 is the old bolt hold open device, and three is the old disconnector. The pins with the burnt ends are the old pins, and on the very left is the old trigger. You will need the old hammer spring, the BHO device and spring, and the disconnector spring for your new FCG.

Now we need to take off the old trigger guard. There is a plate riveted to the bottom of the receiver that has the trigger guard spot welded onto it. You need to drill or file the rivet heads (look in the picture there), punch the old rivets out of the receiver, take off the plate, and then get through the spot weld holding the trigger guard on. You want to re-use the trigger guard; there’s really no sense in ordering a new one- it will have to be welded or riveted on. If you have a spot welder or rivet jig for this receiver, go for it. Otherwise, do as I do. There are three rivets.

Front rivet punched. If you drill the heads off center, or drill too far, you will drill into the receiver. I hit mine a tiny bit; it’s not fatal but should be avoided on principle.

The rear rivet goes through the trigger guard as well; since you are re-using the guard, be careful with the drilling.

Great success. You can see the center rivet here; it was tough to drill it under the trigger guard so I filed it off. They are nice and soft. Notice the receiver is NOT finished under the plate, and mine was starting to rust!

To color the receiver, I cleaned it with #9 and filled it in with a sharpie.

No, I’m kidding. I cleaned it, sanded it a bit, and painted it with the Krylon BBQ paint. The color is pretty close to the Saiga finish (which is also just paint), and it stands high temperatures. It also dries within an hour.

The circle in the middle marks the spot weld. I dremel’d it. I drilled it. I filed it. I broke a drill bit on it. I broke a bullet file on it. I cursed, threw some shit at my cat, and cried a bit. I’ve seen others get through these no problem, mine was really, really on there. Good work, Izhmash peasant factory worker. Eventually, it came off with a combination of drilling, dremelling, bending, and pure determination.

GREAT SUCCESS. The trigger guard is free from Soviet oppression.

You need to cut the little tail off of the trigger guard, and the cut side goes in under your magazine catch. Most people do it the other way, putting the cut side towards the stock, but I think it looks nicer the way I did it. I also painted the guard; it gets a little marred from the drilling and punching of the rivets.

The guard also needs to be bent in a little; a c-clamp works nicely for this. You don’t want to bend it all the way, you want a little tension against your screws to help keep it retained on your receiver.

You need to hold the magazine catch lever open to get to where you want to drill. Tape works nicely.

You can see the hole (1/8th inch bit) I drilled using the trigger guard as a guide.

Slide in a nut, cut a machine screw to the proper length, and tighten it. Do not over-tighten it, there will be plenty of tension when you screw in the rear of the guard.

Unfortunately, I didn’t take a photo of the rear hole, but it’s already there. You don’t need to drill, just attach your guard using a c-clamp to bend it to where you need it to be, and put in the appropriately cut machine screw and nut.

Now you can install the trigger. The one part you will need out of the old FCG is the little spring in the disconnector. Here it is. Just pull the metal sleeve in there, and the disconnector comes apart easily.

If you plan on using your bolt hold open device, you need to file about 1/32nd of an inch off the right side of the hammer, so the plate can fit in between it and the receiver. Be careful, you don’t need to file much at all. This was about 15 strokes.

Go ahead and install your pistol grip. Most of the .223 Saigas will have the square hole for the nut cut already; if not, it will only take a little dremelling to cut one (use your nut as a guide to draw the lines, you can even cut a piece of paper the size of the nut to center it on the receiver). Mine was cut already; that and the magazine dimples indicate they used a military receiver pattern. Lucky me.

Here is the new FCG ready for install. (Pic is before I did the grip) The spring is on the new trigger between it and the disconnecter, it won’t be connected until you get it all pinned in. Notice the little wound spring to the right? This is a key part of the BHO device. Don’t lose or bend it.

Here’s everything in the receiver. Sorry for the photo sequence lapse, I was tired and a little frustrated. Before you put it all back, decide whether you want the BHO in or out. It can be a pain to get in right. The BHO goes on the right (at the top of this photo) and the retainer plate goes to the left (bottom of this photo), it fits into the little channels in your new hammer and trigger pins. The BHO plate goes in, but leave the spring out for now. For the FCG, you want to put the hammer spring on the hammer first, then put the hammer in the receiver with the pin, through back hole in the retainer plate. You may have to tap it gently, but the pin goes in pretty easy. Line up the disconnector and trigger. Put them in the receiver using a slave pin (drill bit works nice). Then the trigger/disconector pin goes in, and you don’t want it to go through the right side of the receiver just yet, and the retainer plate will remain “up”. Leave the safety lever out for now.

Here’s how you get the BHO device to work. Your trigger pin needs to be out of the right hand hole, meaning the retainer plate has to be shifted up. Take out the safety first (if you put it in for any reason), then use dental floss to wrap around the spring. The short side goes towards the back of the receiver, there’s a little notch at the back of the BHO plate it goes into (you’ll see it). The spring needs to be placed, with tension, between the BHO plate and the receiver, then the hammer pin has to be pushed through the spring hole and on into the receiver hole.

Pull it down, get the short side in the notch, and line it up best you can with the hole. Here you see the spring through the receiver hole, behind it the hammer pin. Work the pin while providing tension on the spring with the floss, and then work it all the way in to the receiver hole. I had to tap it in; take a little force.

This was difficult at first, but I could do it in my sleep now. The BHO is a unique and useful feature, and keeping it on prevents you from having to modify your safety lever. It also pleases the Fudds at your gun range. Do it.

Quick note:

You remove/install the top hand guard by twisting it into the retainers on the gas tube. Use a wrench on the flat portion of the tube, and it’s a breeze.

Now, the fun.

Because Saiga hand guards are hideous, modified hand guards look even worse, and the commercial options are crappy as well, I’m modifying a hand guard retainer to be able to get it in and off without pressing off the gas block and FSB. You can buy a bolt on retainer from Dinzag, but it’s ONE HUNDRED DOLLARS with shipping. Fuck that. This was more fun, anyway. Notes on this:

-BUY TWO RIGHT AWAY. Someone wise told me “you’ll break the first one”, but I had pride. I broke it, had to pay shipping again for another one. The cheapest ones are at Apex, the nicest looking ones are the Bulgarians.

-Go slow. Cut a little at a time instead of all at once.

-Go VERY slow with your bending. This is where it will most likely break.

Without further noise, here is how I did it:

You need to cut the top portion of the retainer off with a dremel. Grip it tightly, and use a wet paper towel so you don’t scratch it with your pliers. The red lines are where you cut.

This is the cut. You want some meat left on the new top pieces, or it will break. Also, note in the middle of the retainer, there are two square pieces. Because my Saiga had a thicker than normal barrel, I had to file and dremel out the inside, completely removing these square pieces and widening it a bit to get it to fit. Leave as much of them as you can if you can, they’ll help hold the retainer on the barrel when you tighten it.

The left is what’s left of my first try, and the right is my latest. Notice they are different models- even though I ordered the same part twice from Apex. It’s a shame, because the first one looked and fit better. What’s done is done.

What I want you to notice here it the channels you have to cut on either side of the top piece that goes around the barrel. You need to be able to bend it out to fit over the barrel, so you need to cut. More on this next.

Red lines are where you want to cut. Don’t go too far, but don’t make them too shallow. Cut a little past the top part of the sling clip.The cuts allow the top pieces to be tightened with a screw and nut.

Here’s the best way I found to bend it. I tried two pliers, working it over a pipe, working pliers in between them… use a vise grip, set it like it is here, and apply pressure to bend each side. Go. Very. Slowly. Do not use heat, you’ll make it brittle (see my first one up there?). It doesn’t need to be able to go over the barrel all at once, you’ll have to squeeze/hammer it on. The more you bend it out, the more it has to be bent back in, and the better chances you have of breaking it.

A little vise grip squeeze and a few hammer taps put it on my barrel. Notice I didn’t paint it yet; it’s going to get scratched putting it on, and so’s your barrel. Use a little oil to help you, Clean it, and you can paint the retainer and the scratched barrel all at once.

You have options here; the first is to line up your retainer where you want it (use the hand guard) and chase your 2 top retainer holes with a drill bit, making a channel in the barrel like the original AK has. You can then put in a machine screw through the retainer into the channel, bolt it on, and call it a day. My goal was to not drill the barrel any more than I had to.

What I did was shape this allen screw using a rotary dremel bit to fit VERY tight to the top of my barrel. So tight, when I put it through the retainer, I had to hammer it on to my barrel.

Here’s the final product from both angles. Once it was hammered on, I simply tightened the nut to squeeze the round part around the barrel. My first iteration didn’t include a custom screw, just a machine screw and nut. It would work itself loose every ten rounds or so. This thing is on tight now.

On to the front sight block. Using a laser level, I demonstrate just how off my FSB was. You could see it just looking at it… too much vodak in the factory that day. Due to the severe cant, my desire to use an attached cleaning rod, and the fact that the Saiga FSBs are a little ugly, I decide to replace the whole thing. If you just wanted to fix it, you could tap the pins, hammer it around to where you want it, re-drill the pins. I bought a FSB off of an arsenal from K-Var for seven dollars. No bayonet lug, but I don’t need a bayonet.

They’re held on with two pins that travel through channels in the barrel, and a lot of pressure. Punch the pins from left to right.

Then hammer the FSB until you can get it to spin around the barrel. I had to clamp it, sit on the receiver, and swing the hammer like a coal miner. I heated the FSB with a lighter, soaked it in CLP, hammered, beat, screamed, threw things again, and I know for a fact I cried. These things are on TIGHT, but not so tight you can’t get them to budge. I took mine around 360 degrees before I finally loosened it enough to beat it off.

After it spun around the barrel, I set it up like this. A few golf swings with the hammer against the back of the top of the FSB, and it flew right off.

Just to show you how beat up that thing got. I wouldn’t recommend doing this without a replacement FSB ready.

The new FSB. Hammered right on, no problem.

After lining it up with my laser level, I drilled new channels in the barrel with an 1/8th inch drill bit. I didn’t use the old channels, even though they would have been easier to drill, because the FSB didn’t line up with the end of the barrel. It has extra channels now, but the new FSB covers the old ones up.

The old pins were a bit small for the new holes. Where to get new, wider ones you ask? Just cut the end of the drill bit you used. Perfect sized pins.

Tap them in, right to left. Yes, the rifle is flipped the wrong way in the photo. It’s the only photo I have here of the new pins in.

Fucking nice.

Time to customize some magazines. I used Bulgarian circle 10 magazines. This pic shows where they are just a bit too large to fit in the Saiga’s receiver. The circled areas show where the front of the mag bumps against the “ears” in the receiver, and the post in the rear prevents the mag from inserting completely. You have to file them a bit.

The top one is filed. The clear, bottom one is not. See the difference yet?

The two squares to the left are the parts you file, until the rear of the magazine can be inserted to where the back of it bumps that post. The triangles to the left is where you file to get it in past that post, and to fit under the “ears”. Go slowly, and only work it down until it just clicks in. I used a flat file.

You do NOT need to file the receiver any. Some people file the receiver instead of the magazines. WHY? Rust or bad news in a magazine is a lot easier to replace or fix.

Magazine inserted properly. Notice the rear clears the post.

And now we install out bullet guide. If you look at the front of your Saiga factory magazine, there’s a bump that the rounds hit to push them into battery. Military mags don’t have this, because the rifle has a piece that the bullets push against to guide them into battery. Here, without a proper guide, you can see that the round just butts against the bottom of the barrel. You may also notice a small metal piece under the round here, that’s a Bulgarian 5.56 bullet guide from K-Var I bought on sale for six bucks. They are too thin to work; the Bulgarian 5.56 AKs have a smaller barrel than the Saigas. Wasted money. The other commercial option is from Dinzag, forty bucks shipped. I made my own using the cross-con’s guide, modifying it a bit. My Saiga, as I said, has an exceptionally thick barrel, and the last round in the Bulgarian mags wouldn’t go into battery without being pushed up and to the left.

So I used a 1 inch pipe nipple, measured the length of the barrel to the end of the front trunniun on this marker, and cut. IMPORTANT NOTE: The bullet guide the next few steps shows you is too short to work properly. My original intention was to cut it so I could use Saiga magazines (with their “bullet bump” on the front) and military magazines interchangeably. I’m leaving these here, because it’s still important to know how to get it to clear the bolt on the sides, and because it shows how to tap and drill the trunniun. I will post the proper length guide right after these next few posts.

Use a pipe cutter. It takes about two minutes.

Cut your little “O” in half, and start playing. 1 and 2 here are the areas you will have to trim, as the arrows show the guides that the bolt slides under. 1 and 2 need to be trimmed back to clear the bolt, and 2 needs to be taken in below 3 so the bolt has room to rotate.

These arrows show how I needed to adjust the guide to get the rounds to feed. The last round in the magazines, which is on the right side of the mag, needs a little push to the left as well as up.

I glued the guide in place where I wanted it, center punched it, and drilled it with my 7/64th inch bit, right into the trunnion. Careful not to go through the bottom of the receiver, too.

Here’s the hole I drilled. Now I need to thread it for my 6-32 machine screw.

Go slow, use oil. Go slow, use oil. GO SLOW. USE OIL. Turn it about a quarter turn, back it out to remove the metal shavings. Keep going this way until the whole thickness of the tap is in the hole.

GREAT SUCCESS. Almost. The red arrow here shows the part of the guide I had to take down further so the bolt could rotate.

Original guide.

As I said, the guide needed to be longer. Here is the new piece of nipple I’m cutting, you can see it’s a bit longer. It needs to come right to the front lip of an inserted magazine. Here also is what happens when your bullet guide fails, and rounds impact the bottom of your barrel.

The new guide cut, and the lip meeting the rounds tapered as a ramp.

This filed area shows where the front lip of the inserted magazine fits. Without it, the magazine would have to be filed to far down, or it would push the guide up when inserted.

Comparison, new and old. You can see how much longer the new one is.

I drilled it when I got it lined up with the trunnion hole, and tapped it. Then (on the right) I widened the top opening a bit to make room for the screw head, ensuring a more flush installation.

All installed. You can see the magazine lip fitting in the filed area, and the rounds now hit the guide right away, instead being butted against it like the did with the old one.

Just going to take a moment to say that this project has been an absolute blast. I learned a lot about the AK pattern rifles and their construction, as well as about their function. I now have a unique, one of a kind rifle that’s a product of my vision and ingenuity, instead just a product of my paycheck. I show it off with pride, and know it inside and out- probably better than even my first rifle, a Marlin 917v I bought seven years ago. I never was into AK pattern rifles, and now I find them to be things of beauty and marvels of engineering. I also never had a thing for pistol grip, military style rifles before. This is now my favorite rifle to shoot- pure fun. Without further delay, the final product.

It shoots with minimal recoil, and modest muzzle climb. I can hit four inch groups at 100 yards, but I suspect that’s more me than the rifle.

I don’t want to claim it’s god tier MOA or anything, but the groups I shoot with this are as good as the ones I shoot with my Marlin model 60. I’ve been thinking about scoping it to see what it’s capable of, maybe it’s my new alternate for groundhogs.

I’m pretty happy with it, ya know?

Thanks for reading. Given the amount of knowledge this community has given me over the last few years, I felt like giving something significant back. Selah, my friends.

Don't have a Saiga, but well done anyhow, bru. Req. immediate archival.

Leaves you with a pretty unique AK in the end, nice work. Sexy wood is sexy :3

Why is the first post of this also at >>/arch/9835 , anyway? Regardless, certainly gonna have to read through this some time I'm less tires.

>>135154
>tired

>>135154

>>135012
>Serv also somehow managed to lose every post but the first, rendering the guide kaput.

What's with the knife? For scale?

>>135485
Field expedient bayonet.

>>135486
Just add duct tape! :D

>>135485

Sometimes a knife is just a knife.

Bump for the gent on page 1 who wants to convert his Saiga....

So should I go with a quad rail, or should I go with the actual ak hand guards? And which is sexier, the krinkov muzzle brake or the ak 74 brake?

>>137197

Consider if you like a long or close eye relief scope best, and go from there. The Russian side rail works as well as any handguard rail for a scope, so there's no difference in reliability.

Keep in mind what a front end conversion requires. Either you:

-do what I did, in which case I wouldn't go with a quad rail, because your custom retainer might not keep your handguard solid enough to mount a scope and keep zero (my first one did not, my current one would)

-buy the retainer from dinzag, and these look pretty solid, ($100 though) or

-you have a gunsmith press off your FSB and gas block, and drill your barrel for a handguard retainer channel. This is expensive. The plus side is you can have him put a new FSB (threaded you can find them for $25 if you look hard enough) and gas block on at the same time.

Shit, go with what you want. The only considerations are which kind of optics you plan on mounting, and what aesthetically pleases you.

As for the muzzle break, don't get the AK74 "Style" muzzle break. Get a FSB with 22mm threads and buy an actual 74 break- the fakes don't actually do anything but add weight to your front end, giving you the impression it's reducing your recoil. The 74's, in my opinion, are much better looking (although they would make my 20.5" barrel entirely too long, hence I have none).

It's all a matter of what YOU want.

credit where credit is due,

thats some shmexy furniture you made bunnyguts

>>137418

My folding stock prevents me from using the side rail. Are there any good AK scout mounts for under $75?

>>137451

I dunno, most (I think all) of those mounts use the two pin holes that your leaf sights use. I wouldn't really trust them to hold any reliable zero, either. There's just not much for them to hold on to. Dust cover rails are right out. Forget them.

Your best bet is a handguard rail system, it looks like. The problem is, you may not get a reliable one on the cheap. I can tell you my retainer above is holding quite nicely, and hasn't budged in 300 rounds, or under any sort of shake n' rattle stress testing I put it through.

If you're mechanically inclined, and short on cash, I'd go with that and a handguard rail. If you're not too short on cash, Dinag's bolt on retainer will do nicely for you- but that's $100 just for the retainer. You might be up to $150-$200 for your new front end that way.

If you're not short on cash, and not mechanically inclined, buy the handguard rail you want, a new retainer ($15 at Apex) and take it to a gunsmith. You could throw in a cheap threaded FSB while you're at it. This is not cheap, but probably the best bang-for-buck option.

If all these options are out, you may be back to the non-traditional handguards , such as the Intrafuse rail systems, that require no modification. I don't have a lot of info on those, they may be a crapshoot. Trusting my scope mount to one screw- the Saiga handguards are held in only by the one under the receiver- seems shady to me.

Head over to Saiga12 forums to see what others have done. You have lots of options, it will all come down to cost vs reliability.

>>137421

Thank you. I think so too.

>>137451
>Are there any good AK scout mounts for under $75?

Save up another 25 bucks and get yourself an ultimak gas tube rail.

>>135100

I just cant get over that wood's finish , man it really is some grade A quality woodworking. Hell its all very very nice.

I might be jealous.

>>137497
It's nothing to do with woodworking, fag. It's been coated with a black substance at some point, looks like spraypaint, and what you're seeing is the result of wear to the finish. I'm betting underneath it's stock standard slav laminate.

>>137500

its ebony wood stain you stupid bastard
learn to read you hostess twinkie mother fucker

>>137503

I love you.

All i need now are some binding posts to plug the holes in the receiver and a tromix trigger guard.

>>137497

...and thank you, too.

>>137500

lol anonymous expertise.

>>137576

>>137576

http://www.dinzagarms.com/misc_parts/aknyhp.html

Work much better than binding posts, and this way you don't have to cut your stock to fit in the receiver. They look seamless, too.

Is that a Saiga 12? I can't figure out why your trigger guard plate is half the size of mine.

>>137652
It is a Saiga 12.
I just finished painting the bottom of the reciever a few hours ago, and the parts for the conversion are coming in the mail soon.

>>137656

Awesome. Be sure to post pics when you're done.

It was a blast converting it, wasn't it? I'm thinking of picking up a .308 Saiga just so I can do this again. Shit, if Izhmash doesn't fold, after the wife and I buy a house maybe I'll grab an FFL, do a few a year, and sell them. I just flat out enjoyed working on this rifle.

Did Serv ever archive this new thread?

>>135016

I did a bunch of my furniture in that color. I've thought about doing a rifle in that color, but all my rifles are slavshit, so I always use a reddish stain instead.

Looks nice though.

ARCHIVE THIS

Wow, man. Just wow.

>>139851

I think the archive feature is broken. That's why my original post lost all its replies when it was moved.

>>140101
>>139099

Thanks guys.

This new host is made of hurrrrrr.

http://www.mediafire.com/?zyiy1iwmmnw

Thread archived here. All pics are in the html folder under "Big."

>>141545

Well, if we move hosts and the thread gets fucked again, I've got the text and pictures saved and ready to repost.

I do appreciate the attempts and the .rar, though.

finally I found this thread again. I got most of my parts but I still need the trigger guard.

my parts came today. now all I need is a magpul AFG.

>>144198

Am I the only one who doesn't like the extreme length of the saiga 12 gauge magazines?

For my part, 12 gauge goes in tubes though.

>>144199
>>144198

You, sir, own one fine looking shotgun.

And you saved the BHO device! It makes me happy to see that. It's just lazy to leave it out, and it's useful to boot.

Hope I was able to help some. Did you end up using posts or receiver plugs to fill the old trigger & lever-thingy pin holes?

>>144212
I used the plastic plugs, and the BHO spring was a pain in the ass to put in. I tried the floss but it kept breaking. Also I put the hammer spring in backwards, so I had to completely start over.

>>144204
the 8 round mags are about the same size as an AK mag.

>>144219

I did that too.

I also paid no attention to how I took the FCG out, and spent an hour trying to remember the correct order to finagle it back in.

You may want to heat a knife/flat piece of metal and melt the receiver plugs on the inside to get a better seal with the receiver. Mine never worked loose, but they just seemed like they might pop out under stress.

Don't mind me, just rescuing my thread from oblivion in the vain hope that someone will figure out how to archive it.

.

Badaba-bamp

We need this archived. Why is it not archived?